Bon Appétit
Embrace the essence of Italy while reading Janet Curran Perlman’s review of Semolina restaurant.

Bon Appétit By Janet Curran Perlman, photos by Dan Epstein Enjoying Upscale Italian Dining at Semolina Owner Joe Catalano B estowing upon Joe Catalano, owner such as the $9.95 Spinaci, baby spinach with of Millburn's Semolina restaurant, her goat cheese, toasted walnuts, and strawberries highest culinary accolade, my guest at with a balsamic glaze, and the $8.95 Greeka recent dinner proclaimed him "a real food inspired Cucumber Salad with tomatoes, red geek!" Why? "Because he really understands onion, gorgonzola, black olives, and a zesty the chemistry of food," she marveled after yogurt dressing. eir signature pasta is the Rigatoni listening to Catalano describe how caramelizing the onions that accompany his lamb Semolina, $16.95, a generously portioned shank breaks down the proteins and makes dish blending turkey ragu with a light tomato sauce, peas, and a touch of cream—rich the lamb less gamy. at kind of understanding translates to and savory. Two fall- and winter-worthy winners are a star-studded menu featuring upscale Italian dishes—incorporating techniques from the Pollo Balsamico, $17.95, chicken breast around the world that Catalano has picked with portobellos and sundried tomatoes in up over the years in the restaurant profes- a balsamic demi-glace, accompanied by sautéed spinach and roasted red bliss potatoes, sion. Semolina's intimate dining room can and the Stinco Di Agnelo, braised lamb shank be reached by walking down a hallway past with caramelized onions, sautéed spinach, a bustling open kitchen. Crisp linens cover and roasted potatoes, $23.95. Flown in overnight from the Mediterthe tables and cheerful scenes of Italy dot ranean, the $27.95 Branthe stuccoed walls. As we zino special is wonderchecked out the extensive fully moist, tender, and menu, a loaf of warm, crisp bread and herbed 343 Millburn Avenue, Millburn tasty. Catalano serves the 973-379-9101 filets with baby carrots, butter immediately apSemolina-Restaurant.com toasted coriander sauce, peared on the table. Hours of operation: and roasted fennel pureé. Here's a clever appetizer "I slow cook the fennel idea: Choose three out of Lunch: Tue-Sat 11am-3pm with olive oil in the oven 10 appetizers for $9.99 or Dinner: Tue-Fri 4:30-10pm Sat: 4:30-11pm for 12 hours, then pureé six for $19.95 and sample Sun: 4-9:30pm it," Catalano explains as or share, as we did with we rave about the dish. the Caponata, sweet and BYO When it comes to sour Sicilian eggplant; tomato salad with marinated cherry tomatoes, dessert, indulge yourself with one of Semogarlic, olive oil and spices; and roasted mari- lina's homemade specials—a fresh apple tart with cinnamon ice cream or the best bread nated mushroom salad. For an elegant starter, it's Cozze al Forno, pudding I've had since New Orleans, accom$10.95, meaty, tender Prince Edward Island panied here by a grappa and vanilla-infused mussels fire-baked in the wood oven with a cream, both $9.95. Having worked as a chef at many popuhint of white wine, light pesto cream sauce, and pignoli nuts. One taste of the Tonno Tar- lar New Jersey and Manhattan restaurants, tar, $12.95, a colorful tower of diced fresh Catalano is clearly proud to say, "Semolina is tuna with capers, red pepper, lemon, and my baby. I created this restaurant all by myTuscan virgin olive oil, and my guest called self." And after enjoying a delightful evening of sumptuous food, we might add, "…and dibs. " is is mine!" she exclaimed. Semolina offers outstanding salads, too, you did it very, very well!"  SEMOLINA 94 SUBURBAN ESSEX MAGAZINE November 2009

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