Dining

Cooking with Tony By Tim Hoey, photos by Dan Epstein Refresh Your Spirit with Fresh Zucchini, talian food makes sense in the summer. Whether you're nibbling on paper-thin prosciutto, enjoying sun-ripened fruit, or savoring fresh seafood, la cucina italiana harmonizes with the warm weather so completely that it sets the seasonal standard for our imagination. Fortunately, experiencing this sensibility is quite possible in our area, as the essentials for a satisfying Italian dining experience—garden-fresh ingredients, timetested cooking techniques, and delightful al fresco dining—can be easily acquired. For Chef Tony Grande of Il Capriccio, respecting summer's bounty and connecting with its refreshing spirit are important both inside and outside the kitchen, as he noted during our recent conversation. I and I used to go with her to prepare the soil, plant the vegetables, care for them, and harvest them. I learned a lot from her, not only in the garden, but also in the kitchen. tim: What was home-grown? tony: Zucchini, peppers, and beans were the standards. Zucchini blossomed first. It was something we cooked in the early summer, when both the air and the taste of the zucchini were refreshing. tim: e zucchini were cooked in a "from-scratch" tomato sauce and served with fresh pasta, cor- tony: For me, cooking isn't just eating. We don't just cook for ourselves—we love to see people enjoy the meal we've prepared. Also, at this time of year, combining the fruit of the garden with a deep feeling for the season is the right way to go. Our sense of connection to nature should be celebrated and it can be done simply, economically, and even beautifully. Most good summer recipes reflect that idea. tim: I recall seeing the garden at your country house, lush and filled with vegetables, and how proud and happy you were with it. tony: Like most Italians, I grew up with a garden as an everyday part of life. My family had a small farm. My mother was in charge of the garden, 66 SUBURBAN ESSEX MAGAZINE Summer 2009 Salsa di Pomodori Freschi, Zucchini e Pecorino (Fresh Tomato Sauce with Zucchini and Semi-Dry Pecorino Cheese) Serves 4.* 3 ripe medium tomatoes, unpeeled, unseeded, cut into ¼" cubes ½ white onion, chopped fine 1 medium-size zucchini, seeded and cut into ¼" cubes 6 basil leaves, chopped 3 oz. extra virgin olive oil, divided into two equal parts 6 oz. semi-dry pecorino cheese, cut into ¼" cubes 4 Tbsp. Parmesan cheese 1 Tbsp. Italian parsley, chopped Salt and pepper to taste 2 oz. water rect? tony: Yes. Even the flour for the pasta was homemade. We had our own grain and went to the local mill to grind it. I don't do that here! Also, in Italy, my family made pasta without the eggs. Nowadays, I use eggs—they make the pasta more consistent, smooth, and velvety. ey also provide a nice yellow color to the noodles. tim: What's the ideal size for zucchini? tony: To use in recipes such as mine, the vegetable should be around six to eight inches long, not more than that. Of course, zucchini can grow It In a medium to large skillet, braise onions in 1½ oz. oil until onions are lightly golden. Add tomato and water. Cook, uncovered, over medium to high heat for 10 minutes. Add zucchini and cook 5 minutes. Add salt, pepper, basil, and parsley. Set aside. To cook tagliatelle (the suggested pasta), boil water and add salt. Place pasta in water and cook about 8 minutes. Strain and quickly place in skillet with simmering sauce. Mix. Add Parmesan, pecorino, and remaining oil. Toss ingredients, garnish with basil, and serve. * Use ready-made pasta or find tagliatelle recipe at SuburbanEssex.com

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